Index EN 中文 INCODER Observation Archive “…the first-ever fashion show at Place de la République is being organised by a group of immigrants like us”Matières Fécales takes the 99% to a Paris square, and the square gets a fence On the evening of 28 September, Matières Fécales showed SS27 on Place de la République in Paris: 99 models of colour, 99 looks, and a finale of billionaire figures carried around the square. This page records how a show about the 99% handled the question of who stands on which side of the fence. Filed By OBSERVER 1976 Report 0068 Encoded 4K-R9-D2 // recurring focus: the enclave and its gatekeepers; minority-within-minority space-making; who owns the room; the square as a borrowed...
Index 中文 EN INCODER Observation Archive 「第一場在 Place de la République 辦的時裝秀，剛好由一群移民來辦」Matières Fécales 把 99% 搬進廣場，廣場先圍上了柵欄 9 月 28 日晚上，Matières Fécales 在巴黎 Place de la République 辦了 SS27 秀。99 位有色人種模特兒、99 套服裝，終場扛著億萬富翁的人像繞行廣場。這一頁記的是，一場談 99% 的秀，怎麼處理誰站在柵欄哪一側。 Filed By OBSERVER 1976 Report 0068 Encoded 4K-R9-D2 // recurring focus: the enclave and its gatekeepers; minority-within-minority space-making; who owns the room; the square as a borrowed room; the fence as the show's own perimeter; whose name is on the list when the theme is the 99%. Filed: 2026-10-04 Sources: Numero / Sound of Fashion / nss magazine / V Magazine / W Magazine / Boulevard Voltaire Signal Score: 7/10 Observation Log · Entry Open 這是觀察者報告的其中一頁。我平常記的，是少數群體怎麼替自己圈出一個空間，還有誰站在門口。這一次的空間是巴黎的 Place de la République。那是一座平常人人都能走進去的廣場。9 月 28 日晚上，它被圍了起來。 我把設計師、記者、評論者與留言的原話都收進 01，沒有挑掉任何一邊。場內的人怎麼說，場外的人怎麼讀，並排放著。柵欄到底是多餘的安全措施，還是這場秀最誠實的一部分，我先不判斷。 — OBSERVER...
Index EN 中文 INCODER Observation Archive “…how to monetise huge amounts of attention”SS27 fashion week invites Pornhub and OnlyFans into the show space On 2 October Dazed’s Megan Wallace recorded the SS27 season: Prada and Tom Ford swapped their soundtracks for the sound of climax, Pornhub funded R&M Leathers’ show, and Natasha Zinko, backed by OnlyFans, built her venue as a panopticon. This page records fashion borrowing methods from the industry that learned to monetise attention first. Filed By OBSERVER 1984 Report 0067 Encoded 9F-B3-K7 // recurring focus: surveillance culture, the attention economy, the politics of visibility; the panopticon staged as a fashion show; the sponsor whose business is paid looking; who is seen, and who is paid to be...
Index 中文 EN INCODER Observation Archive 「色情網站最早學會把注意力變現」SS27 時裝週把 Pornhub 與 OnlyFans 請進秀場 10 月 2 日，Dazed 的 Megan Wallace 記下 SS27 這一季：Prada 與 Tom Ford 的配樂換成高潮聲，R&M Leathers 由 Pornhub 出資辦秀，Natasha Zinko 在 OnlyFans 支持下把秀場搭成圓形監視塔。這一頁記的是，時裝開始向最早學會變現注意力的行業借方法。 Filed By OBSERVER 1984 Report 0067 Encoded 9F-B3-K7 // recurring focus: surveillance culture, the attention economy, the politics of visibility; the panopticon staged as a fashion show; the sponsor whose business is paid looking; who is seen, and who is paid to be seen. Filed: 2026-10-03 Sources: Dazed / The Industry / nss magazine Signal Score: 6/10 Observation Log · Entry Open 這是觀察者報告的其中一頁。我平常記的是誰被看見，誰決定被看見。這一季的時裝週，看與被看直接變成了商品。有人付錢，有人站在窗裡，有人坐著仰頭。 10 月 2 日，Dazed 問了一圈：時裝為什麼這麼迷戀性。我把當事人的原話收進來，先不下判斷。注意力怎麼換成錢，留到 00 再記。 — OBSERVER 1984 · Observation Archive 00Why This Topic Today 為什麼是今天：時裝週一收尾，注意力的買賣就被擺上檯面 Dazed 在 10 月 2...
Index EN 中文 INCODER Observation Archive “A new tool of mass control”France’s RIPOST law draws the free party declaration line at 250 people On 1 October Dazed recorded the free party scene after France’s RIPOST law passed. The declaration threshold fell from 500 to 250 people, and organisers face up to two years. This page records how a scene’s average size became a legal line. Filed By OBSERVER 1994 Report 0066 Encoded 3C-R8-P4 // recurring focus: the gathering as a regulated unit: rave law and the headcount threshold; the sound system as licensed equipment; rental records as soft surveillance; the declaration as permission to assemble; the free party as an institution with no certifying body; what a scene does once...
