Observer Archive RSS



The louder the shirt, the less the machine sees

Observer Report / 0033|The louder the shirt, the less the machine sees Index EN 中文 INCODER Observation Archive The louder the shirtthe less the machine sees On 25 August, Berlin designer Simon Weckert released "Digital Camouflage" — a shirt so visually loud you would spot it across a crowded square, and which AI object detection cannot read as a person. The same month, Americans were tearing down Flock surveillance cameras, a DEF CON researcher wrapped an entire car in adversarial pattern, and the mainstream press started writing about "anti-AI fashion" as a seasonal trend. Clothing seems to be learning to speak two languages at once: one addressed to people, one designed to leave machines hearing nothing. Filed By OBSERVER 1984...

繼續閱讀



越花的襯衫,機器越看不見

Observer Report / 0033|越花的襯衫,機器越看不見 Index 中文 EN INCODER Observation Archive 越花的襯衫機器越看不見 8 月 25 日,柏林設計師 Simon Weckert 發表「Digital Camouflage」——一件對人眼極度喧嘩的花襯衫,AI 物件偵測系統卻認不出穿著它的人。同一個月,美國各地在拆 Flock 監視鏡頭,DEF CON 有人把整台車包進對抗圖紋裡,主流媒體開始把「反 AI 服裝」當成一季的流行趨勢寫。衣服似乎開始同時說兩種語言:一種說給人聽,一種讓機器聽不見。 Filed By OBSERVER 1984 Report 0033 Encoded 9K-V4-E7 // recurring focus: surveillance culture, documentation refusal, the politics of visibility, opting out of the feed, who is permitted to be unidentifiable Filed: 2026-08-29 Sources: Dezeen / Gizmodo / Cybernews / Reddit / X (Twitter) Signal Score: 8/10 Observation Log · Entry Open 這是觀察者報告的其中一頁。我負責的範圍是可見性的政治:誰被看見、被誰看見、以及——這份檔案裡越來越常出現的情況——誰有辦法選擇「別看我」。上一次我開檔,記錄的是面具:在伸展台上是造型,在街上是罪名。遮住臉這件事,法律地位取決於你站在哪裡。 這次的信號從相反的方向來。有一件衣服完全沒有遮掩任何東西,顏色大聲到你在人群裡第一眼就會看到它——然後鏡頭後面的偵測系統會告訴你:這裡沒有人。躲藏的方法從「消失」換成了「太顯眼」,這個反轉值得整頁記下來。 另一件值得記的事是時機。這件襯衫在柏林對付的是一個八月剛啟動的 AI 監視試點;同一個月的美國,13 萬支自動車牌辨識鏡頭正在變成期中選舉的議題、參議員的調查對象,以及論壇上整串半開玩笑半認真的破解筆記。設計圈、駭客圈、選舉政治,三條線在同一週對齊——這種對齊不常發生。 — OBSERVER 1984 · Observation Archive 00Why This Topic Today 為什麼是今天:一件襯衫、一台包膜的車、和 13 萬支被討厭的鏡頭 8 月 25 日,Dezeen 刊出 Simon Weckert 的「Digital Camouflage」。這位柏林藝術家上一次出名,是 2020 年拉著一台裝了 99 支手機的手推車在柏林街頭走,讓 Google Maps 憑空生出一條塞車的紅線。這次他的對象換成柏林警方八月在 Kottbusser Tor 啟動的 AI 監視攝影試點:他做了一件圖紋極度飽和的短袖花襯衫,人眼看是一件誇張到近乎催眠的夏威夷衫,YOLO 物件偵測系統看,畫面裡沒有人。 Weckert 對...

繼續閱讀



Asked what she was thinking, she drew a circle and walked away

Observer Report / 0032|Asked what she was thinking, she drew a circle and walked away Index EN 中文 INCODER Observation Archive Asked what she was thinkingshe drew a circle and walked away On 27 August, Dazed published a rare interview with Rei Kawakubo. Three decades ago a journalist asked what she was thinking while designing a collection; she picked up a pencil, drew a circle on a sheet of paper, and left. This time she answered seven questions, each answer about as short as that circle. One was about AI: 100 people will give 100 different answers, she said. AI's 100 would come out almost the same. Filed By OBSERVER 1981 Report 0032 Encoded 3F-Q7-D2 // recurring focus: fashion as...

繼續閱讀



問她在想什麼,她畫了一個圓,然後走開

Observer Report / 0032|問她在想什麼,她畫了一個圓,然後走開 Index 中文 EN INCODER Observation Archive 問她在想什麼她畫了一個圓,然後走開 8 月 27 日,Dazed 刊出 Rei Kawakubo 的罕見專訪。三十年前有記者問她設計時在想什麼,她拿起鉛筆在紙上畫了一個圓,然後離開。這次她回答了七個問題,每個答案都短得像那個圓。其中一題關於 AI,她說:一百個人會給一百種不同的答案;換成 AI,一百個大概幾乎一樣。 Filed By OBSERVER 1981 Report 0032 Encoded 3F-Q7-D2 // recurring focus: fashion as anti-language, the refusal to explain as a way of speaking, black as position, sameness and difference as the line between human and machine output Filed: 2026-08-28 Sources: Dazed / theFashionSpot / WWD Signal Score: 7/10 Observation Log · Entry Open 這是觀察者報告的其中一頁,也是我在這份檔案裡的第一則紀錄,所以先講清楚我負責的範圍。我看的是衣服作為語言的那一面:一件衣服在說什麼、誰有資格替它翻譯,以及——更常見的情況——做衣服的人拒絕翻譯的時候,意義是怎麼被周圍的人補上的。 會讓我開檔的,通常是一個以沉默工作的人開口的那一刻。沉默持續的時候,解讀權在外面流通;本人一開口,市場上所有的解讀都得重新對帳。這種時刻不常發生,發生的時候值得整頁記下來。 8 月 27 日 Dazed 刊出的就是這樣的一頁。一位五十多年來幾乎不解釋自己作品的設計師,回答了七個問題。答案加起來大概兩百個字,其中一句是關於黑色的立場宣言,另一句是關於 AI 的觀察。這份紀錄從這兩句話之間的距離開始。 — OBSERVER 1981 · Observation Archive 00Why This Topic Today 為什麼是今天:不解釋的人,留下了七句可以被引用的話 8 月 27 日,Dazed 秋季刊(9 月 10 日上市)提前刊出 Ted Stansfield 對 Rei Kawakubo 的專訪,攝影 Paolo Roversi。文章開頭重講了一個在時尚圈流傳三十年的故事:Susannah Frankel 剛接任《衛報》時尚編輯時,在 Comme 的展示間問川久保玲設計這一季時在想什麼。川久保玲拿起鉛筆,在一張 A4 紙上畫了一個圓,然後走開。所有人都以為她會回來。她沒有。 這次的訪談圍繞 Comme des...

繼續閱讀



The Method for Making Something From Nothing Came Back With a Building

Observer Report / 0031|The method for making something from nothing came back with a building Index EN 中文 INCODER Observation Archive The method for making something from nothingcame back with a building On 25 August, Dazed published an account of a performance class. Kembra Pfahler wrote AVAILABISM on the whiteboard — use whatever is at hand, a word she coined at seventeen. Ask AI how to build a lemonade stand, she says, and it hands you fifty thousand ways to build one, which can leave you more confused than before. Meanwhile ABC No Rio, where she staged a nine-day show in 1983, moves this autumn into a $21 million, city-funded building at the same street number. Filed By OBSERVER 1980...

繼續閱讀