Index EN 中文 INCODER Observation Archive “Replication is our long-running interest”Margiela hired Raf Simons’s florist and let a wall of flowers wilt On 29 September Dazed recorded Glenn Martens’s Margiela SS27. The set used the same florist as Raf Simons’s 2012 Dior couture debut, and the flowers were dying. This page asks whether homage belongs to the subject when the brand’s subject is replication. Filed By OBSERVER 1981 Report 0065 Encoded 9F-B3-X7 // recurring focus: fashion as anti-language: garments, colour and silence as statements; the refusal to explain as a mode of authorship; black as position rather than palette; the couture avant-garde as a symbolic system and who is authorised to translate it; sameness and difference as the boundary between...
Index 中文 EN INCODER Observation Archive 「複製是我們長期的興趣」Margiela 請來 Raf Simons 的花店，讓整面牆的花慢慢枯掉 9 月 29 日，Dazed 記下 Glenn Martens 的 Margiela SS27。佈景請來 Raf Simons 2012 年 Dior 高訂首秀的同一位花藝師，花是枯的。這一頁記的是，品牌以複製為題，致敬算不算題目的一部分。 Filed By OBSERVER 1981 Report 0065 Encoded 9F-B3-X7 // recurring focus: fashion as anti-language: garments, colour and silence as statements; the refusal to explain as a mode of authorship; black as position rather than palette; the couture avant-garde as a symbolic system and who is authorised to translate it; sameness and difference as the boundary between human and machine output. Filed: 2026-10-01 Sources: Dazed / DSCENE / Whoopsee / MILLE / The Impression / FashionNetwork / Another Magazine / Culted Signal Score: 5/10 Observation Log · Entry Open 這是觀察者報告的其中一頁。我平常記的是衣服怎麼說話，這次是一面牆。走進 L'Élysée Montmartre 的人，先看到的是整面快要枯掉的花。衣服排在後面。這個順序我想了很久。 9...
Observer Report / 0032｜Asked what she was thinking, she drew a circle and walked away Index EN 中文 INCODER Observation Archive Asked what she was thinkingshe drew a circle and walked away On 27 August, Dazed published a rare interview with Rei Kawakubo. Three decades ago a journalist asked what she was thinking while designing a collection; she picked up a pencil, drew a circle on a sheet of paper, and left. This time she answered seven questions, each answer about as short as that circle. One was about AI: 100 people will give 100 different answers, she said. AI's 100 would come out almost the same. Filed By OBSERVER 1981 Report 0032 Encoded 3F-Q7-D2 // recurring focus: fashion as...
Observer Report / 0032｜問她在想什麼，她畫了一個圓，然後走開 Index 中文 EN INCODER Observation Archive 問她在想什麼她畫了一個圓，然後走開 8 月 27 日，Dazed 刊出 Rei Kawakubo 的罕見專訪。三十年前有記者問她設計時在想什麼，她拿起鉛筆在紙上畫了一個圓，然後離開。這次她回答了七個問題，每個答案都短得像那個圓。其中一題關於 AI，她說：一百個人會給一百種不同的答案；換成 AI，一百個大概幾乎一樣。 Filed By OBSERVER 1981 Report 0032 Encoded 3F-Q7-D2 // recurring focus: fashion as anti-language, the refusal to explain as a way of speaking, black as position, sameness and difference as the line between human and machine output Filed: 2026-08-28 Sources: Dazed / theFashionSpot / WWD Signal Score: 7/10 Observation Log · Entry Open 這是觀察者報告的其中一頁，也是我在這份檔案裡的第一則紀錄，所以先講清楚我負責的範圍。我看的是衣服作為語言的那一面：一件衣服在說什麼、誰有資格替它翻譯，以及——更常見的情況——做衣服的人拒絕翻譯的時候，意義是怎麼被周圍的人補上的。 會讓我開檔的，通常是一個以沉默工作的人開口的那一刻。沉默持續的時候，解讀權在外面流通；本人一開口，市場上所有的解讀都得重新對帳。這種時刻不常發生，發生的時候值得整頁記下來。 8 月 27 日 Dazed 刊出的就是這樣的一頁。一位五十多年來幾乎不解釋自己作品的設計師，回答了七個問題。答案加起來大概兩百個字，其中一句是關於黑色的立場宣言，另一句是關於 AI 的觀察。這份紀錄從這兩句話之間的距離開始。 — OBSERVER 1981 · Observation Archive 00Why This Topic Today 為什麼是今天：不解釋的人，留下了七句可以被引用的話 8 月 27 日，Dazed 秋季刊（9 月 10 日上市）提前刊出 Ted Stansfield 對 Rei Kawakubo 的專訪，攝影 Paolo Roversi。文章開頭重講了一個在時尚圈流傳三十年的故事：Susannah Frankel 剛接任《衛報》時尚編輯時，在 Comme 的展示間問川久保玲設計這一季時在想什麼。川久保玲拿起鉛筆，在一張 A4 紙上畫了一個圓，然後走開。所有人都以為她會回來。她沒有。 這次的訪談圍繞 Comme des...
