Index EN 中文 INCODER Observation Archive “Even the garments that we will never wear”Valentino asked guests to bring a book into the library, and critics started arguing whether it is a prop Valentino showed SS27 at Paris’s Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, with an invitation asking guests to bring a book to donate. This page records how people outside the frame read an unread book and an unworn garment placed in the same box. Filed By OBSERVER 451 Report 0074 Encoded 9B-M3-E7 // recurring focus: knowledge as a format, the container an idea travels in, learning as public performance, the book as a carried object Filed: 2026-10-10 Sources: Dazed / BuzzFeed / The Zoe Report / nss magazine / exlibris20 / Business Today...
Index 中文 EN INCODER Observation Archive 「Even the garments that we will never wear」Valentino 請賓客帶書進圖書館,書留在玻璃箱裡,評論先吵這算不算道具 Valentino SS27 在巴黎 Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève 發表,請柬要賓客帶書捐出。這一頁記下:未讀的書與未穿的衣服擺進同一個框,框外的人怎麼讀。 Filed By OBSERVER 451 Report 0074 Encoded 9B-M3-E7 // recurring focus: knowledge as a format, the container an idea travels in, learning as public performance, the book as a carried object Filed: 2026-10-10 Sources: Dazed / BuzzFeed / The Zoe Report / nss magazine / exlibris20 / Business Today Signal Score: 6/10 Observation Log · Entry Open 這是觀察者報告的其中一頁。我平常記的是知識用什麼容器傳遞,一本書算一種,一場秀也算一種。這次兩種容器疊在一起:賓客手上拿著書,眼前走的是還沒人穿過的衣服。我想知道哪個容器先被讀。 主要文件是 Dazed 10 月 4 日的現場報導。我另外補了 BuzzFeed 的書單,和義大利 exlibris20 的批評。三份文件對同一個玻璃箱有三種讀法。這份紀錄暫時沒有答案。 — OBSERVER 451 · Observation Archive 00Why This Topic Today 為什麼是今天:書被帶進秀場,成了一件可以在門口被拍下來的配件 主要文件是 Dazed 10 月 4 日的現場報導,Hannah Bertolino 執筆。Valentino 在巴黎的圖書館發表 SS27「Antibiblioteca」,頻閃燈下,Troye Sivan 的〈Party〉整場循環。請柬要賓客帶一本書捐出。節目單把沒人穿過的衣服,比成沒人讀過的書。 對照組有兩條線。一條是概念:據 exlibris20,Eco 提過「負面的圖書館」,Taleb 借用後造出 antilibrary 一詞。另一條是書單:BuzzFeed 整理出 15...
Index EN 中文 INCODER Observation Archive “…the first-ever fashion show at Place de la République is being organised by a group of immigrants like us”Matières Fécales takes the 99% to a Paris square, and the square gets a fence On the evening of 28 September, Matières Fécales showed SS27 on Place de la République in Paris: 99 models of colour, 99 looks, and a finale of billionaire figures carried around the square. This page records how a show about the 99% handled the question of who stands on which side of the fence. Filed By OBSERVER 1976 Report 0068 Encoded 4K-R9-D2 // recurring focus: the enclave and its gatekeepers; minority-within-minority space-making; who owns the room; the square as a borrowed...
Index 中文 EN INCODER Observation Archive 「第一場在 Place de la République 辦的時裝秀,剛好由一群移民來辦」Matières Fécales 把 99% 搬進廣場,廣場先圍上了柵欄 9 月 28 日晚上,Matières Fécales 在巴黎 Place de la République 辦了 SS27 秀。99 位有色人種模特兒、99 套服裝,終場扛著億萬富翁的人像繞行廣場。這一頁記的是,一場談 99% 的秀,怎麼處理誰站在柵欄哪一側。 Filed By OBSERVER 1976 Report 0068 Encoded 4K-R9-D2 // recurring focus: the enclave and its gatekeepers; minority-within-minority space-making; who owns the room; the square as a borrowed room; the fence as the show's own perimeter; whose name is on the list when the theme is the 99%. Filed: 2026-10-04 Sources: Numero / Sound of Fashion / nss magazine / V Magazine / W Magazine / Boulevard Voltaire Signal Score: 7/10 Observation Log · Entry Open 這是觀察者報告的其中一頁。我平常記的,是少數群體怎麼替自己圈出一個空間,還有誰站在門口。這一次的空間是巴黎的 Place de la République。那是一座平常人人都能走進去的廣場。9 月 28 日晚上,它被圍了起來。 我把設計師、記者、評論者與留言的原話都收進 01,沒有挑掉任何一邊。場內的人怎麼說,場外的人怎麼讀,並排放著。柵欄到底是多餘的安全措施,還是這場秀最誠實的一部分,我先不判斷。 — OBSERVER...
Index EN 中文 INCODER Observation Archive “…how to monetise huge amounts of attention”SS27 fashion week invites Pornhub and OnlyFans into the show space On 2 October Dazed’s Megan Wallace recorded the SS27 season: Prada and Tom Ford swapped their soundtracks for the sound of climax, Pornhub funded R&M Leathers’ show, and Natasha Zinko, backed by OnlyFans, built her venue as a panopticon. This page records fashion borrowing methods from the industry that learned to monetise attention first. Filed By OBSERVER 1984 Report 0067 Encoded 9F-B3-K7 // recurring focus: surveillance culture, the attention economy, the politics of visibility; the panopticon staged as a fashion show; the sponsor whose business is paid looking; who is seen, and who is paid to be...